This is a guide to reassembling Locke's custom lightsaber.

*DISCLAIMER: THE OWNER OF THIS WEAPON DID NOT CONSTRUCT IT. ALL OF THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS COULD BE COMPLETELY INCORRECT, ARE TOTALLY FROM MEMORY, AND ARE MERELY GUESSES. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

The parts required for Locke's custom lightsaber are as follows. It is important to note that every Jedi's lightsaber is different and typically fashioned by hand in their own way. Thus, some specifications may not be exact. If attempting to replicate, parts may vary slightly.

Use of the Force is advised for minute and adjustments. It also gives a sense of if the weapon is going to work or not.

Finally, this should only be attempted by someone who knows what they are doing, or who is constantly supervised. Malfunctioning lightsabers have been known to explode and one can easily lose a hand as a result.

Durasteel Cylinder: This is the main casing of the lightsaber hilt, and is the weapon's foundation. It is 1 foot long and 1 and a half inches in diameter. In the case of Locke's lightsaber, a vacuum flask is used.

Durasteel Cap: Converted from the cap of a vacuum flask and follows the same diameter. Ideally, it is from the same part used for the cylinder. This cap serves a double purpose: It is the base of the lightsaber hilt and will also conceal a small storage compartment.

Leather Cord(2 feet): This cord will serve as the lightsaber's grip. It must be wound tightly around the cylinder and cut off when excess length is not needed. It is held in place by thermal paste.

Focusing Crystal: This is perhaps the most difficult part of a lightsaber to gauge, as crystals come in all different shapes and sizes.

Emitter Shroud: a 1-inch diameter durasteel disc to protect the blade.

Crystal Mount: Holds lightsaber crystal in place, extremely important.

Power Field Conductor: Made of wood, keeps power field from injuring user.

Diatium power cell: Powers the lightsaber. Power levels fluctuate wildly and this can mean the difference between a lightsaber that lasts for a few years and one that lasts a lifetime.

Additional supplies needed:

Heat-resistant adhesive paste
A circular saw.
A smoothing element

Step:

1. Remove the base of the vacuum flask and smooth over edges.
2. Carefully assemble internal parts: the power cell must be carefully inserted into the power field conductor.
3. Next, the crystal mount is attached to the power cell.
4. The crystal is seated within the crystal mount. Use of the Force is necessary for proper seating.
5. The entire structure is seated within the vacuum flask.
6. The lid of the vacuum flask is reattached, forming a small, discreet storage compartment at the base of the hilt.
7. Wrap leather cord around flask, using adhesive to keep it in place. Cut when roughly 10 inches of flask is covered.
8. Finally, attach emitter shroud via adhesive.
9. Heft lightsaber, ensuring that no parts make any sound.
10. Hold at arm's length and turn on. Hope nothing breaks.

If you turn on the lightsaber and everything works, congratulations. You're ready to kill some Jedi scum.

The End

DC-17 Hand Blaster (with 50 round plasma energy clip). Breakdown:

Upper receiver:
* Energy discharge port
* Clip Insertion
* Electromagnetic Plasma-Activation Hammer
* Trigger mechanism
* Handle and polymer grip

Lower Receiver

* Adjustable ceramic iron sight
* Twin multi-ceramic-durasteel rail system
* Durasteel-tritanium tempered bore
* Durasteel flash hider
* Electromagnetic well (controls the route of plasma along the barrel)
* Durasteel-tritanium alloy barrel